Full Dress or White Tie

Here we’ve gotten into the most formal of attire. Full dress is not a fashion, but a representation of culture, and therefore not a matter for debate. Many cultures have their own full dress, but I will highlight only that which is shared between the US and England. In these two cultures there are actually 2 forms of full dress (Not including the military which is a whole other ball game) Morning coat for morning and Mourning, and white tie. These are both tail coats, but the similarities end there… mostly…

The pants are the same as black tie pants, though they must be black, and they must be tailored for wear very high on the waist. (As mentioned in the suit sections: they should have either suspender buttons or side adjusters, but never go with a belt.) Traditionally they are pleated, but my hatred of pleats is so passionate that it is the one tradition I would break while wearing full dress.

            As mentioned the coat must have tails. Unlike a morning coat which curves back into tails from a continuous line, white tie tails are cut in a more jagged fashion (you may also note that while a pianist flicks his tails back over his bench, a gentleman sits on them (that being said, I flick mine back if I have the chance for comfort sake…)) Note: though the coat is double breasted, it is not actually able to be buttoned. In fact it should be tailored in a way that the two sides of the jacket can just touch each other in the center. Finally, we come to the length. Full dress pants are worn very high on the waist. They should rest on your hips. The vest should just cover the waist of the pants, and the hard edge of the coat should perfectly meet the bottom of the vest. the vest should not peak out under the bottom, nor should it’s bottom hide under the coat. 

            The vest itself should be white and made of a piqued cotton. Often times they are backless for the heat, but with or without a back does not matter. Single or double breasted is fine so long as every button on the vest is buttoned, and the vest must have lapels. The tie should be cut from the same cloth as the vest, and may be a diamond tip or butterfly tie so long as you tie it yourself.

A full formal shirt is not optional in full dress. A full formal shirt has a bib at the front that is so thick and starched it always looks perfectly flat. More than that though, a full formal shirt has single french cuffs of the same thickness, and a detachable collar (also made of cotton and starched to the point that it might as well be made of cardboard.)

There is however, slightly more latitude on the shoes, as one may wear either black paten oxfords, or black paten opera pumps. Weirdly enough the opera pumps are the more formal option.) Though the socks should be black silk socks.

            Wrist watches are designed to be checked frequently and discretely, and therefore to wear a wrist watch is to tell the host you are keeping an eye on the time. For this reason, they are never to be worn with tails. You should however wear a pocket watch. Every metal piece you wear should be made of sterling silver, platinum, white gold, or electrum. As always, electrum is ideal, but if I haven’t been able to find it, then I don’t expect you to. Silver is perfectly fine (honestly I prefer it to white gold and platinum.) .[1] The reason yellow gold is not used is it doesn’t quite fit the clean look of white tie. One should also wear cuffs and buttons that are either mother of pearl on the inside, or just solid metal, or containing precious stones or pearls.

            As far as outerwear is concerned: it should be black. A double-breasted coat of knee length or longer is ideal. It should be wool. Fur lining is ideal, though not realistic for most of us. Scarves and gloves should be white and made of silk and kidskin respectively, and one should wear a silk or beaver skin top hat.

[1] Be sure to clean your silver. Else you will find that it tarnishes and rubs on your beautiful white clothes.